Sewing with Silk
Nothing else comes close to the softness and sheer luxury of 100% pure silk. But, sewing with the fabric can be frustrating without an understanding of its characteristics and exacting requirements. On the other hand, you do not need a fancy machine to sew with silk; and it is a lot easier to sew than most synthetics.  

 Fabric Preparation: If you plan to wash your garment rather than dry clean, pe-wash silk. Soak uncut fabric and all components, linings, interfacings, zippers etc. in a large tub of warm water for about 20 minutes. Rinse in cold water. Press on wrong side of fabric while still damp. Let rest for 24 hours.

Note: Some silks are best dry cleaned as they will change characteristics when washed.... i.e. Charmeuse will become dull but often softer too. Silk velvet and metallics should always be dry cleaned either by the bulk or individual method. Test wash a small square of your fabric. If you like the results, wash. (See also section on dry cleaning.)

   Needles: Always use new needles. For light weight and medium weight silks, use a #9 or 11 sharp needle. For heavy weight silks, use a #13 sharp. Never use a ballpoint needle! It will tear the fabric rather than go between threads.
   Thread: Generally, 100% cotton thread is recommended for sewing light and medium weight silks. Cotton is weaker than silk. It therefore breaks easier in the event of stress on the finished garment. A broken seam is a lot better than a torn garment. For heavy silks, poly/cotton may be used, but remember, polyester does not take home dyes. So, if you are ever going to change the color of your garment, you might wind up with very pronounced seams.
   Machine Tension: Set your tension loose, about a #2 or #3 tension.
   Stitching: For fine silk, 10 to 12 stitches per inch is good. For heavier silks, 8 to 10 stitches per inch works best.
   Pins: Use silk pins to avoid pin marks. They are very sharp and will not break fabric threads. It is best if only seam allowances and darts are pinned.
 

Interfacings/Linings etc: Light weight fusibles may be use on silk but should be done with care. It is best not to use fusibles on very fine silks. Interfaces should be lighter than the outer fabric. Silk organza or organdy is the best choice for fine silks. Pre-shrunk muslin and fine hair canvas are good choices for heavier fabrics.

China silk (sometimes called Fuji or Washable Silk), spun silk and silk broadcloth are all excellent underlinings. When working with blouse weight fabrics (i.e. crepe de chine), it is common to use self fabric for collars, plackets, cuffs and the like. If added body is desired, silk organza, organdy or pre-shrunk muslin may be used.  

   Zippers: Use lightweight sippers, i.e. nylon coil. For best results, sew zippers in by hand with a #10 sharp needle or a #10 embroidery needle.
   Seams: Finish all seams! On light weight silks, French or flat fell seams are best. On heavier silks, use the bound or Hong Kong seam. Silk can ravel. So, finish those seams! If you have a serger, serge.
   Washing: Yes, most silks are washable. Wash in cool water. Use soap or a mild liquid dish washing detergent. It is not necessary to use specialty cleaning agents. Hang or lay flat to dry in shade. Press on wrong side of garment with a cool iron while still damp or with light steam. Silk is a protein fiber (like you hair). When washing, treat it accordingly. Do NOT use bleach. (However, peroxide is OK.) Do not use hot water. And, for best results, keep silks out of direct sun.
   Dry Cleaning: All silks can be dry cleaned, although many very soiled fabrics respond better to washing. Some silks should only be dry cleaned. They include: taffeta, brocade, metallic, velvet, chiffon, and some satins, charmeuse, and crepe.
  Suggested Reading: Sensational Silk: A Handbook for Sewing Silk and Silk-Like Fabrics by Gail Brown. Although this book is currently out of print, it may still be available at your local library or some sewing stores.

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